Oaxaca

La Casa del Mezcal

This locale, which looks like a traditional Mexican cantina from the front and entrance, offers a varied selection of the classic worm-laced beverage, plus a nice musical mix from an eclectic jukebox. Malcolm Lowry himself, no doubt in an advanced state of inebriation, once dropped in. It’s a customary haunt for fans of the drink, who like to stop by and warm their throats before plunging into the fiesta or otherwise head for bed. It’s right across the street from the Juárez market.

Flores Magón 209, Oaxaca, Oax. Phone: 516 21 91

El Elefante

If you’re seeking a nightspot with an intense musical mix that ranges from Latin sounds to British dance tunes, check out this place, which might just as well be on the beach. Unlike the music, the lighting is rather low-key, with strobes on the dance floor. An absolutely hassle-free disco.

20 de Noviembre 110, Oaxaca, Oaxaca

El Central

This is the place for visitors who get a charge from live music, have a taste for art and out-of-the-ordinary cultural gathering spots. Once the studio of painter Guillermo Olguín, El Central has been converted by Olguín himself into a meeting place for fans of cinema and enlightened interaction. Initially operating under cover, it gradually turned into a legitimate club. The space now hosts concerts, exhibitions and films, with Olguín’s small sculptures and totems forming part of the scenery.

Hidalgo 302, Oaxaca, Oaxaca,.Phone: 501-1337. www.colectivocentral.com

20 de Noviembre Market

As you browse through the various market stalls, where San Juan de Dios was once worshipped, you’ll find your appetite gradually building. Vendors offer an incredible variety of traditional Oaxacan fare, prepared using methods that recipes can never fully imitate, including tasajo, cecina, tlayudas, tamales, enchiladas, and many more.

Tlayudas de Libre

This street stall is a temple to the tlayuda, one of Oaxaca’s most traditional culinary offerings and one that is quite difficult to find outside the region. To the eyes of outsiders, tlayudas look like gigantic tacos. They’re served with tasajo (salted beef) and quesillo (Oaxacan cheese, shredded for easy melting). Steeped in popular tradition, the locale spills out on Calle Libre so you can wantonly chow down in the open air. Meat and tortillas are simply tossed on the coals, then moved over to the grill and served immediately, one on top of the other, for a meal to be devoured with relish.

Calle Libre, between Murguía and Morelos

Los Danzantes

This restaurant serves 37 traditional Oaxacan dishes, all fused with contemporary cuisine. It is housed in a colonial building with modern decor that generates a wonderful atmosphere. Among the highlights are huitlacoche (corn fungus), ravioli in squash blossom sauce, grasshopper soup, barbecued chicken with cactus paddles in pulque sauce, hierba santa (Mexican pepperleaf) filled with string cheese and goat cheese, not to mention the wine and mescal list.

Macedonio Alcalá 403-404, Centro Histórico, Oaxaca. Phone: (951) 501-1184. www.losdanzantes.com/web/restaurantes/oaxaca/

Camino Real Oaxaca

This grand hotel stands in the heart of Oaxaca, housed in a historic Sixteenth Century building that was originally constructed as the Santa Catalina de Siena monastery. The hall and restaurant boast a dozen important antique paintings. There are spectacular views from each of the rooms; some face the streets of the Historic Center while others look out over the hotel gardens, with 87 different varieties of plants and flowers. The hotel was given a four-star rating by the American Automobile Association. The bedrooms are decorated in the colonial style, with carved wood, curtains of Oaxacan textiles and assorted antiques. The main restaurant serves typical Oaxacan cuisine.

5 de Mayo 300, Oaxaca, Oax, 68000. Phone: 951/501-6100.    www.caminoreal.com/oaxaca

Casa Colonial

This Oaxacan-style house is a great place to stay without any undue formalities, and it’s cozy and comfortable with very attractive decor and lighting. It is also surrounded by porches and a leafy tropical garden studded with jacarandas and has an interesting library and a comfortable lounge. Strike up a conversation with the owner and you’ll learn all about the city and places to visit. The copious breakfast on offer will undoubtedly provide you with all the calories you’ll need to cover the city.

Negrete 105 (Apdo. Postal 640), Oaxaca, Oax, 68000. Phone: 951/516-5280.  www.casa-colonial.com

Hotel Victoria

This large five-star hotel is a five-minute drive outside the city, just far enough to afford panoramic views of Oaxaca from its elevated perch. It has an immense garden as well as a pool, tennis court, restaurant, bar, business center and a full range of services. The rooms are quite spacious with modern decor.

Lomas del Fortín 1, Oaxaca, Oax, 68070. Phone: 951/515-2633.   www.hotelvictoriaoax.com.mx

Metropolitan Cathedral

Work began on this building in 1535 under the architect López Zárate. The painter Andrés de Concha executed the main altar between 1575 and 1612. An earthquake caused major damage in 1714 and the building was closed to the public. It reopened in 1730. The wooden screens and chandeliers are European, and the Virgin of the Assumption was done by the Italian sculptor Todolini. The recently restored stone facade is a symbol of the city; the restoration work won anthropology and history awards. The historic monument has been the site of the International Baroque Organ Festival.

Independencia Ave 700, Centro Histórico, Oaxaca

Templo de Santo Domingo

Of all the churches in Oaxaca, this one boasts the most lavish ornamentation. The New Spain baroque-style structure was initiated in 1551 under the Dominican monks. Over the course of its checkered history, it was closed to the public during the War of Reform after the imposition of Jacobean secularism, then used as an artillery storehouse until Porfirio Díaz gave it back to the church. Inside, the sublime decoration reaches rarefied heights, with vivid yellows and golds bouncing off the gilt altar and filtering through the stained glass windows.

Gurrión Street at Alcalá

Montealbán

This archaeological site, on a hilltop 10 kilometers from Oaxaca, was the pre-Columbian seat of power for Oaxaca’s central valleys. Perched 400 meters above its surroundings, it functioned as a defensive fortress owing to its strategic location and excellent visibility. Scenes in the Plaza of the Dancers depict victories over other cities, with figures in eccentric positions seemingly dancing in agony as a result of the genital mutilation performed on them by their captors. The multi-ethnic character of the site reflects the commerce it had with Teotihuacán during the first stage of the Classic period. The Olmec, Mixtec and Zapotec cultures were its primary influences, contributing its writing system and pottery. Montealbán was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987.

Mitla

This ancient city was the successor to Montealbán, enjoying its peak of prosperity between the Eleventh and Sixteenth centuries. The buildings of high-ranking figures display green mosaic facades and large monoliths that blend architectural details from the Zapotec and Teotihuacan empires. Chief among its features is the clarity of detail in its engravings and paintings, though only a few bits have withstood the passage of time.

Tule tree

Seldom does a tree elicit much interest among tourists, unless it happens to be as formidable as this one.  The ahuehuete - whose name means “tree of light” – has become famous for the diameter of its trunk, which at close to 42 meters is the world’s largest. Rising 40 meters, the tree is estimated to be almost 2,000 years old. It’s located 13 kilometers from Oaxaca city, opposite the atrium of Santa María del Tule church.